Defense3 Things That Make It Complicated (and How To...

3 Things That Make It Complicated (and How To Fix Each One) » Concealed Carry Inc

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The 1911 is one of the best-shooting handguns you can carry, and one of the most abandoned.

You see it all the time. Somebody buys a beautiful 1911, tries to carry it like they’d carry a striker gun, gets frustrated inside of a week, and the thing ends up living in the safe. The gun didn’t fail them. They just ran into the handful of things that make a 1911 a little more involved to carry than a modern polymer pistol, and nobody warned them ahead of time.

So let me warn you. There are three of them. None are dealbreakers, and all three have clean answers.

Before anyone writes the platform off, remember why people put up with the extra homework in the first place. That single-action trigger is genuinely easier to shoot well than most carry triggers on the market. The gun is slim, flat, and points like a dream. Once you solve the three things below, you’ve got a carry gun that most people only wish their plastic pistol felt like.

Let’s get into it.

1. It carries cocked, locked, and loaded, and that takes discipline

The correct way to carry a 1911 is what’s called Condition 1: round in the chamber, hammer cocked, thumb safety on. Cocked and locked. That’s how John Browning designed the gun to be carried, and it’s perfectly safe when you do your part.

The trouble is that a cocked hammer riding in your waistband makes new 1911 carriers nervous, and nervous people make bad compromises.

Here’s what most folks get wrong. Some get spooked and carry with an empty chamber, which means you need two hands and a couple of seconds you may not have to get into the fight. Others carry hammer-down on a live round, which on a 1911 is a genuinely bad idea. And plenty carry Condition 1 the right way but never actually train the safety, so under stress they either forget to sweep it off on the draw or wipe it back on at the worst possible moment.

Right looks like this. Commit to Condition 1 and drill the thumb safety until it’s automatic. Sweep it off as part of your draw stroke, every single time. Re-engage it before you reholster, every single time. Dry practice is free, and this is exactly the kind of thing dry practice is for.

Most 1911s add a second layer too: the grip safety on the backstrap. The gun won’t fire unless your firing grip presses it in. That’s a nice bit of insurance, right up until it isn’t. A weak, sloppy, or compromised grip (think shooting one-handed, an injured support hand, or fighting from a retention position) can fail to fully depress that grip safety, and you’ll get a click when you were counting on a bang.

Furthermore you should be gripping the gun fully/properly when you draw and when you re-holster so the grip safety won’t protect you from putting a round through your leg during the draw/re-holster.

The fix is the same one that solves half of everything in this sport: build one consistent, high, firm firing grip and rep it until it shows up automatically, and make the safety off safety on a deeply engrained habit.

2. The magazines are the platform’s weak point, so buy good ones

Almost every reliability story you’ve ever heard about a 1911, good or bad, comes down to one part: the magazine.

Factory mags and bargain-bin mags have been the Achilles heel of this platform for as long as it’s existed. Failures to feed, failures to lock back, rounds nose-diving, most of it traces straight back to a cheap or worn-out magazine, not the gun and not the ammo.

What people get wrong here is predictable. They blame the pistol when it chokes, they run whatever mags happened to come in the box, or they buy the cheapest magazines they can find and treat them like a lifetime part. None of that ends well.

Right looks like investing in magazines from makers who’ve earned a real reputation. Check out the Wilson Combat 47 Series which sets the standard though there may be others worth your money. Buy a few, run them hard, identify the ones that run clean, carry pristine mags, and retire any that start getting sloppy. Magazines are a consumable, not a forever part, and on a 1911 they’re the cheapest reliability upgrade you can buy.

A reliable seven or eight beats a jam-prone larger number every day of the week, and a spare mag in your pocket is cheap insurance on both counts.

3. It’s heavy, so let the holster and belt do the real work

A full-size steel 1911 runs right around 39 ounces loaded. That weight is the number one reason people quit carrying one.

Here’s the thing though. The weight is almost never the actual problem. A flimsy belt and a holster that lets the grip flop away from your body, those are the problem. Let that grip stand off your side and a 1911 prints like a tent pole under a t-shirt.

So the weight gets solved by two pieces of gear working together, and neither one is the gun.

First, the belt. A real gun belt carries the weight and keeps the whole rig from rolling and sagging through the day. This is exactly where The Foundation Belt earns its keep. It’s stiff where it needs to support the gun and it gives where it shouldn’t, which is the entire difference between carrying a heavy pistol comfortably all day and counting down the hours until you can rip it off.

Second, the holster. You want a wedge and wing, pieces that levers the grip of the gun in toward your body and kills the printing at the source. And because the 1911 is genuinely thin, a single stack at roughly an inch and a third across, once you tuck that grip in it conceals better than a gun its size has any business doing.

One more wrinkle. Because it’s heavy and because everybody’s build is a little different, getting a 1911 to ride exactly right takes more experimentation than a light polymer gun does. This is where a holster like the Lexington IWB holster really shines. You get adjustable cant, ride height, and retention, so you can actually dial it in instead of settling for close enough. It runs with a range of hardware including DCC Clips, RCS clips, and PTD Soft Loops, so you can match your belt and your carry position. And the Modwing offers three height settings, so you can tune how hard it tucks the grip, the tuck torque, until the gun just disappears.

The Lexington Holster Has the Adjustability and Modularity That Best Supports the 1911 Platform

A heavy gun rewards a holster you can adjust. The Lexington is one you can adjust.

Put it together

The 1911 isn’t a hard gun to carry. It’s a gun that asks you to do three things on purpose instead of by accident.

Carry it in Condition 1 and drill the safety and your grip until both are automatic. Buy quality magazines and test them before you trust them. Then put it on a real belt and a holster you can dial in, and let your gear carry the weight instead of your willpower.

Do those three things and the 1911 stops being a safe queen and goes back to being what it always should have been: one of the best carry guns you’ll ever shoot. If you’re ready to solve the third one today, start with the Lexington and a Foundation Belt, and go carry your 1911 like you mean it.

About Jacob Paulsen

Jacob S. Paulsen is the President of ConcealedCarry.com. For over 20 years Jacob has been involved as a professional in the firearm industry. He values his time as a student as much as his experience as an instructor with a goal to obtain over 40 hours a year of formal instruction. Jacob is a NRA certified instructor & Range Safety Officer, Guardian Pistol instructor and training counselor, Stop The Bleed instructor, Affiliate instructor for Next Level Training, Graduate and certified instructor for The Law of Self Defense, TCCC Certified, and has been a Glock and Sig Sauer Certified Armorer. Jacob is also the creator of The Annual Guardian Conference which is a 3-day defensive handgun training conference.





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